Across the Continent

Across the Continent

travel, coast to coast

[Unknown]

http://addison.vt.edu/record=b1775388~S1

Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University

October 2015

Kristin Colonna, Lee Mathias

Permission to publish images from The Gray Jacket must be obtained from Special Collections, Virginia Tech

Text

English

Personal Journal

LD5655.V8 L4, ser.1, v.2, no.9 (July 1877), p.1-3

Continental US

I left Washington yesterday evening at 4 o'clock, arrived in Harrisburg about the middle of the night, but totally ignorant of the fact, this morning when I awoke we were in the midst of the Alleghany Mountains. They loomed up on either side and looked very imposing and grand as the train wound around their basis; the general scenery was indeed fine; we journeyed on to reach this place at 9:15, A. M. At last a cloud of smoke was seen looking like a thunder cloud, dark and ominous, but it came from the chimneys—not from the Heavens—this was Pittsburg [sic] —remained twenty-five minutes got breakfast and changed cars, taking the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chicago line. Pittsburg may well be called the city of smoke and dust. As we are now leaving the mountains it is becoming exceedingly warm and uncomfortable—at 12 M. arrived at Alliance, Ohio—had 20 minutes for dinner, and during that time had a refreshing shower, which was enjoyed more than the dinner, making traveling much more pleasant. In this section many vineyards are seen; considerable attention seems to be paid to them. The soil appears very rich and productive, everything looks prosperous and the country is beautifully rolling, but covered with grass of rich deep green color—good deal of stock raising is carried on— there is but little corn or wheat to be seen. Canton is quite a large place, but has unpaved grass-grown streets, reminding me of my native town in Virginia. Five P. M., arrived at Mansfield —no opinion formed. Six thirty, reached Crestdine — " twenty minutes for refreshments "—very grateful. It is a place of some importance, but not pretty. The temperature is now delightful—country level, fertile, and rich in grasses, oats, rye, hay and clover ; which are the principal productions. Notice a great many sheep that have just been shorn ; it is to be hoped that the wind will be tempered to them. All stock are in fine order.

Sunday 7th. When I first looked out this morning by the Lake shore I found we were gradually approaching Chicago—we reached it at six thirty—left at 10. Sunday is a greatgala-day; processions, music, &c., very handsome buildings—the Grand Pacific Hotel is an elegant building, best I have seen. Took a good bath there— great luxury and a good breakfast. Am now on the plain between Chicago and Omaha, country slightly rolling, soil black and rich, prairie grass dense and heavy, less densely settled. Farms all fenced. All towns passed were manufacturing, iron works, railroad agricultural implements. Here everything is timber and grass—found no one going so far west as myself until I reached Chicago, there met a gentleman—we are now travelling [sic] together. One P. M., as we jog along at the rate of 40 miles an hour, the country opens for miles and miles on all sides ; lovely, immense fields of wheat and corn. Just passed an orchard of about sixty acres. The main difficulty here seems to be want of fuel, though beautiful groves of maple and lombardy poplars and other trees are occasionally seen. Cultivation of trees for fuel is being tried to a great extent. Dined at Dixon at 2:10 ; poor dinner. Passed Fulton and crossed the Mississippi at 4:15. Fulton is on the east side, Clinton on the west ; both very pretty. The latter is a great lumber depot. The scenery about the river is lovely. Hills of wheat and corn extend as far as the eye can reach, prairie chickens appear occasionally. Many of the inhabitants may be seen at the stations, it being Sunday. Will take supper at Cedar Rapids at 8:15. Monday 8th, 7:30. Delightful ; have just had breakfast at Dunlap. As night fell yesterday we passed thro' a wilder section on the banks of some stream, the night was dark, stormy and grand but this morning it is clear. Little villages, some small, some large, are strewed along the line at intervals of nine or ten miles. In the early morning, from Chicago here, you see nothing but one long extended plain, a sea of grass, but now the country is rolling again.

Three P. M. On the plains of Nebraska. Reached Council Bluff 11:20; two hours behind time. Changed cars and crossed the Missouri river to Omaha on the west side. It contains a good many fine buildings, and is an important place. Have changed cars again and checked baggage to San Francisco. First Indian just appeared hanging around the depot begging. Chief, Squaws with their papooses; who are exhibited for two bits. After coursing along the Platte river, arrived at Fremont. Passed the eastern bout train at 2. The train is long and well filled. Many got on at Omaha. At the middle of the day, and while at Omaha, it was oppressively hot, but now we have a strong northern wind. So much corn is raised and with so little labor that much of it is used for fuel in the absence of wood. Wheat fields, to, extend for miles. The implements used are of the most improved patterns.

Tuesday 9th. At 7 the train was stopped; got up and found that during the night a terrific thunder, hail and rain storm had prevailed, washing up part of the track, and consequently delaying us three or four hours; very much disheartened because breakfast is an important item, and we will not get it until 12; stylish. Have made some more pleasant acquaintances; have a good time together, pay visits, &c. Antelopes occasionally make their appearance along the track. Indians dressed in their peculiar garbs at every station. They shoot their bows at five cent targets for the amusement of the passengers. They are mostly of the Sioux tribe. Cheyenne, 3:30. Very cold, overcoats needed. Have had a gay and pleasant day, but here two young ladies got off for Denver; they will be very much missed. Hotel cars have been discontinued of late, as meals are gotten at certain stations. Had dinner at Cheyenne.

Wednesday 10th. Forgot to say that yesterday about 12 we passed Columbus, a small station, supposed to be situated about the centre of the United States. Yesterday evening to Sherman, the highest point in the Rocky Mountains; 8242 feet. The scenery became grand, but after a while we were runing [sic] on table land, some what resembling the plains. This morning we are still on level country but barren; sometimes for miles no vegetation can be seen. Overcoats and fire are needed. Had supper last night at Laramie; quite a town it is, a very important railroad station. Nine thirty A. M. On what are called the “Alkali Plains,” they are covered more or less with sage brush which in its green state is very fattening to stock. Country exceedingly rugged; mountains and barren snow-clad peaks are occasionally seen on either side. Will get breakfast at Green River; should have been there before this but for an accident. At Rocky Springs, just passed, are extensive coal mines, worked mostly by Chinamen; some are on fire and have been for a year. At Laramie and Sherman are army stations; the barracks seem quite comfortable. Have just passed Green river, the water is very alkaline, even the soil shows it. On a high peak here is a lone crag called the “Devil’s Pulpit,” it is two hundred feet in height from base, irregularly shapen as a pulpit. About one-half mile distant is another more irregular and larger one known as “Green River Butte.” The country is grand even in its barrenness. Four thirty P. M. Since last notes long ranges of mountains covered with snow have been constantly seen. The temperature has moderated a good deal. The scenery now is grand and superb. The rocks assume the most grotesque and peculiar shapes—some of old dilapidated castles—some overhang in the most wonderful manner—they take their names from their shape, such as “Chimney Rock,” “Witches Rock,” “Dolly Varden,” &c. We wind around the basis in a very circuitous way following the ravines. Mountain streams course along in an irregular and winding way. The snow-clad mountains look most beautiful; as the noonday passed and the evening sun has been reflected upon them. Just passed “Maiden Grave.” A young lady some years ago in crossing here for her health died and requested to be buried there, in an ordinary grave without monument or flower.

Thursday 11th, 7 A. M. At 6:16 last evening arrived at Ogden, Utah, stayed there one hour and a half; got supper and changed cars for the last time, taking the Central Pacific road. From this point can go to Salt Lake city only forty miles distant. A short while after leaving we coursed along the Lake at the foot of the mountains and reflected on the placid lake, the effect was indeed exquisite. We are now travelling [sic] through a valley devoid of beauty except for the distant mountains. The snow is not more than fifty feet about us yet, the temperature below is pleasant enough. One o’clock P. M. just passed a small station—the only thing of interest connected with it were that the eastern bound train was there, and millions of mosquitos. They were in clouds—all windows had to be closed against them.

Seven P. M., just had supper at Hembolt, a small place. As I [intelligible] out the sun is setting and a cloud overhangs and envelopes a high mountain. The rays of sun illuminate it and display the outline rendering it very pretty. I noticed that there are working post at short intervals all along the road. This work is principly [sic] done by the Chinamen and most of them are protected against Indians. These Chinamen still wear their native garb and their tail. The latter is their greatest pride.

Friday 12th, 9:30 A. M., when I awoke we were in the midst of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We soon reached the summit and were at the highest point of the road, a height of 740 feet. Here had breakfast, California strawberries, &c. Gold is mostly used from this point to California. Had to procure some. After leaving this place had to pass through nearly forty miles of almost continuous snow-shed, while yesterday all the snow was above us. This morning much was far, far beneath—but now we reached another climate—no snow to be seen except on far distant mountain tops that look as though it ought not to be there. Are now descending very rapidly, the altitude being about 3,000 feet. Two engines are used to all trains. The scenery has been magnificent all morning. The mountains are covered with cedar, pine, oak and fir, with much undergrowth. We seem to leap across abysses hundreds of feet in depth. The mountain streams rush frantically and madly down their sides and subside in a lake beneath as though wearied by exertion. We run along on a mountain side, on one side its peak invisible, on the other a valley several hundred feet below. Have to-day passed the chief mining region. This is now done by hydraulies—making use of the streams and literally washing away the mountains. The old system of pickaxes being almost given up. A short time since sounded “Cape Horn,” a name given to a point where a large promontory jets out in a ravine; we course along its side while almost perpendicularly on one side descends an abyss about one thousand feet in depth, and in these lies the American river. It looks like a brook but is of some importance. Houses look like martin boxes and men are not seen. The whole is superb. The train stops five minutes to allow passengers to observe—as I now look out the valley of California is visible, having reached the western edge of the mountains. It reminds me that my journey will be over at 8 o'clock to-night. Our descent will be more rapid than ever. In eight miles we descended over five hundred feet. Little or no steam is required brakes being principally used. The Sierra Nevadas are much more beautiful than the Rocky Mountains. At all the stations are flowers and gardens—everything looks fresh and green. Seven P. M. have descended the Sierras, traversed the valley between them and the coast range, which is covered with wheat, perfectly level and fertile, ascended and descended the coast range, passed Stockton and Sacramento cities and am now speeding across a flat but very pretty country towards San Francisco. We are now gathering together our various articles and packing them in our valise preparatory to shaking hands and saying good-bye.

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